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A journey down Egypt's Red Sea coast to find Sufi saints and a mystical lyre
El-Quseir once welcomed explorers, warriors and Hajj pilgrims, but today its bypassed in favor of bigger Red Sea resorts El-Quseir is pitch black at night. The only light inside this decaying labyrinth of a port comes when a battered Bajaj motorcycle purrs down the odd alley, casting a headlight on one of the town’s many stray dogs, or a passerby flashes a phone, lighting up a decaying wooden balcony. The old mayor’s house is easy to find in the darkness. It emits a warm, golden light. When I ar
